Why Shell is betting billions to drill for oil in Alaska

FORTUNE -- Pete Slaiby is eating breakfast with an Eskimo businessman at a Mexican restaurant across the street from the Arctic Ocean when two Coast Guard admirals happen to walk in. It's 8 a.m. on a Tuesday in late March.

Outside the temperature is an extremity-tingling, -35° F. Look 100 yards north, and it's not at all clear where the snow-covered land ends and the ice-covered ocean begins. Slaiby, Royal Dutch Shell's vice president for Alaska, rises to give the Coast Guard brass a warm welcome before they grab a nearby table.

"Welcome to Barrow," he says wryly as he sits back down to his plate of huevos and reindeer sausage.